Why you shouldn’t copy coupons and the $2/2 Listerine/Aveeno/Band-Aid update

In my “Tuesday Tips” post this week, I talked about ethical coupon usage and one of the things that I mentioned was not copying coupons.  Some people assume that all printable coupons are the same and that it’s OK to copy them, but that’s not true and when people copy coupons and then use them, it hurts all of us!

I got several notes last night and early this morning about a $2/2 printable coupon that included Listerine, Aveeno, Carefree, and Band Aids.  I have used this coupon in numerous match-ups and it was even included in my CVS and Target match-ups originally this week.  The original information I found indicated that the coupon had been added to the CIC fraudulent coupon list.  Apparently, someone copied multiple copies of this coupon and was selling them, too, which is why it is now on the list.

If you printed the coupon yourself from an original link, you can verify the authenticity here. Unfortunately, stores will be receiving messages from the CIC showing the counterfeit coupon and stores will not be able to tell which coupons are “valid” and which coupons are copied, so they will probably begin refusing all copies of this coupon.  I’m hoping this will not affect the acceptance of other printable coupons at my stores because using coupons has gotten hard enough at several of my stores already!

For the record, printable coupons include a number of unique features to prevent you from copying them including watermarks and unique veri-fi codes in the upper right hand corner.  When people alter or copy coupons, it hurts all of us.  The manufacturers will not be reimbursed for these coupons and we will pay for it in increased costs.  In addition, our stores will become less coupon friendly if they are “burned” by fraudulent/greedy coupon users.

Here are some tips for avoiding fraudulent printable coupons:

-Only print coupons from “reliable” sources such as the manufacturer’s website or well-known sites such as Coupons.com, Redplum.com, Smartsource.com, or Coolsavings.com

-Be wary of PDF-printable coupons UNLESS you get them directly from a manufacturer’s website or other valid source

-Don’t buy printable coupons from sites such as eBay

-If a printable coupon seems too good to be true (free, high dollar amount, etc.), it probably is.  Check the CIC fraudulent coupon list here before printing.

Coupon fraud IS a punishable offense.  Here are some statistics from the CIC:

As of this date,
Longest prison sentence: 17 years
Highest financial penalty: $5 million
Prison sentences of three to five years are not uncommon. Financial penalties generally vary, but have often been in excess of $200,000.

**Not one defendant has been acquitted in a CIC related coupon fraud case since operations began in 1986.


*This post may contain affiliate links. Please refer to my disclosure policy for more information

 

My Thoughts on Extreme Couponing

Tonight is “the big night”  It is the premiere of “Extreme Couponing” on TLC.  If nothing else, it certainly has generated lots of discussion about coupon use on message boards and blogs across the country.

When the first episode aired, I was out of town with my family.  I got several messages and texts about the show, asking if I was watching.  I didn’t get a chance to watch it until a week or so later when I was back in town.

Based on the first episode that I viewed, here are some of my thoughts:

1.  It’s not realistic – I’ve been using coupons “heavily” for about four years now and in that time have been connected to fellow “couponers” on message boards across the country.  Most people, even “heavy” couponers (at least none that I know) spend hours preparing for a grocery trip, a few more hours at the actual grocery store, and then another hour or so at check-out. That’s a full day’s work!  I don’t know any grocery stores in my area that would allow someone to have carts and carts full of items that they were going to be checking out all in one transaction…and the employees certainly wouldn’t be helping push carts full of toothbrushes and pasta around with smiles on their faces.  I once tried to buy six bags of rice that would have been “free after coupon” at a local Kroger store and I was told I could only buy 3 in one transaction.  They actually made me go to the customer service desk and ring up my six bags of rice in two separate transactions.  I’m concerned that shows like this will discourage new couponers, making them think that they are not doing “enough” or that they will paint an unrealistic picture – that you can accumulate a huge stockpile overnight.  I wonder, too, how big these people’s vehicles are to accommodate all that “stuff.”  I know my van wouldn’t accommodate three carts full of items!  I don’t know many of us that have the space for that amount of stuff in our homes, either.

2.  They don’t show “the big picture” – First, to me, my time is as valuable as saving money.  Sometimes I have to put things in perspective and really ask myself if it’s worth it to spend hours dragging my kids around to various stores just to get free pasta or free deodorant or free toothbrushes.  To be honest, for me, free isn’t always free if it means that I have to sacrifice quality time with my family to get it.  There’s always a ‘cost’ even if it’s not monetary.  So, sometimes I have to say to myself that it’s OK to skip out on a deal and that another one will come along and even if it doesn’t, it’s OK.   The things that they show as being “free” aren’t always really “free” either.  When you’re using hundreds of coupons, they have to come from somewhere.  I don’t know many people that have that many generous friends, so I’m guessing that they either purchased those coupons from a coupon clipping service or they bought a whole lot of papers.  Either way, there’s an “expense” there that isn’t shared.

3.  It gives couponers a bad name – If you’ve been couponing for long, you’ve probably had some of these experiences:  the big huge siiiiiiiiiiggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhh accompanied by a very sarcastic “great” from the customer behind you in line as you pull out your coupons or the eye roll from the cashier and the “We’re not going to give these to you for free” comments.  I like to practice “the Golden Rule” of couponing, which means that I don’t believe in being a shelf clearer.  I’m not going to lie and say that I’ve never bought 20, 30, or even 40 boxes of pasta (or other items) when there was a really good sale.  But, I will say that I didn’t buy all of those items in one transaction or at one store.  I have gone to separate stores or on separate days so that I don’t clear the shelves and so I can stay in the good graces of my stores.  I think it will also have long term negative effects because I think that stores will start changing policies to try to prevent this type of “extreme couponing” and that it will effect all of us couponers in the long run.  I know the store says otherwise, but I can’t help but think that Kroger’s recent decision to end double/triple coupons in the Houston market after an episode of Extreme Couponing was filmed there is not related.  Just my opinion, of course!

If you’ve stuck around for all of my “opinions” and you’re really interested in how you can get started using coupons, here are a few tips:

1.  Start collecting coupons! Coupons are not just in the Sunday papers anymore.  There are lots of great resources for finding coupons.  Check out my post here on “Where to Find Coupons” for more information.

2.  Start small – It’s very easy to get overwhelmed when you are first starting to use coupons because there is so much information out there.  My advice is to start small and pick one store to focus on and learn the ropes.  I typically recommend starting with a drug store because you can see the impact on your budget and start building your stockpile of health and beauty items relatively quickly.

Check out my store guide for CVS here for ideas on getting started with shopping at CVS

Check out my store guide for Walgreens here for ideas on getting started with shopping at Walgreens

I also have a post here that compares shopping at CVS vs. shopping at Walgreens

I also post weekly match-ups and scenarios, including “newbie” scenarios where you spend less than $5 to get started.

3.  Let someone else do the work for you! There are plenty of great blogs out there that do match-ups for you.  Find a great blog (I’m of course partial to mine…just sayin’!) that does match-ups for your area.  They will usually also outline which items are at a “stock up” price.  In the beginning, it’s hard to know what a “stock up price” is.  I have a post here about “What I’m Willing to Pay for Things” (keep in mind that this is based on being able to double and triple coupons).  I often have people ask me if it’s “worth it” to pay for services such as “The Grocery Game.”  To be fair, I’ve never actually tried out this service.  But, I have a hard time spending money on something that I know that I can get for free.

4.  Learn the lingo – When you first start couponing, and especially if you’re reading message boards, the “lingo” can quickly become confusing and overwhelming.  Check out my post here on “Coupon Lingo” to help you out!

5.  Find an organization system that “works” for you – One of the things that becomes most discouraging for new couponers is how to organize all of those coupons.  I know that when I was first starting out (and a few more times through the years), I’ve suddenly ended up with piles and piles of coupons which my husband was less than thrilled about.  Through the years I’ve experimented with a number of different systems.  Here are a few:

-Binder method:  Use file folders and baseball card holders and organize your coupons by category

-Filing system: Keep your inserts intact (just write the date of the insert on the outside, for example – 4-3 SS).  This makes it easy to locate your coupons if you’re matching them up with deals.  When I used this system, I kept them in hanging file folders by month

-Coupon organizer:  Keep your coupons in a filing boxes or divided coupon holder (I have the sections in mine organized by store, but some people organize them by category)

Here are a few other posts that might be helpful:

31 Ways to Save in 2011 (tips for saving on all kinds of things from household items to groceries and even electricity)

Coupon Basics

If you’ve got questions as you get started, don’t be afraid to e-mail me and ask me!

*This post may contain affiliate links. Please refer to my disclosure policy for more information


Getting paid to shop at CVS and Walgreens!

I remember before I really started using coupons, I would hear people talk about all the money they were saving at Walgreens and CVS and I thought they were nuts because to me, drug store prices seemed way higher than places like Target or Walmart.

I made a quick trip to Walgreens and CVS yesterday and after coupons, rebates, ECBs, and RRs, they paid me to buy all of this!

Here’s the breakdown:

CVS:

2 Speedstick deodorant – 2/$6
1 Skintimate shave gel – $3.49
1 Physician’s Formula mascara – $10.29
1 Trident gum – $1.29

-$5 Physician’s formula coupon
-$6 Physician’s formula CRT (these are the coupons that print off on the receipt)
-$9.99 ECB

Spent $0 OOP (I know if you do the math, it looks like I should owe $, but for some reason they actually had to adjust my ECB down), earned a $3 ECB, $2.50 ECB, $7 ECB and a $.50 ECB (that was my CVS “quarterly” ECB)

Walgreens:
3 Puperoni – $1.99/each
1 Speedstick – $1.99
31 Snickers eggs – $.29/each

3 $1/1 Puperoni coupons
10 $1/2 Mars coupons
$4 RR

Spent $0 OOP, earned a $2 RR and a $1 RR

Plus, I will get back a $9.99 rebate from the mascara!

If you’ve been putting off playing the drugstore game, you CAN do it!  I post “newbie” (less than $5 out of pocket) scenarios every week to help you get started.

You can check out my CVS match-ups and scenarios for the week here

You can check out my Walgreens match-ups and scenarios for the week here

*This post may contain affiliate links. Please refer to my disclosure policy for more information.

 

Tip of the Day Tuesday: Understanding Coupon lingo

Welcome to all my new readers who may also be new (or relatively new) to couponing!  I know one of the hardest things for me when I was a a “coupon newbie” was trying to understand all the coupon acronyms that were posted on coupon blogs and message boards.  I felt like I was entering a secret society and it was so confusing! 

If you’re new to the world of coupon lingo (or you’ve been around for awhile but still haven’t figured it all out), here’s a key to help you “decode” things on my blog and other blogs/message boards you may visit:
$ off – this is a “slang” term used for most common coupons that have a $ off amount. If you are reading message boards, people will sometimes shorten this to $/1 or $/2 (meaning the dollar off and then the # of items that need to be purchased)

Blinkie – These coupons are usually found at grocery stores and come out of a little machine with a blinking red light

BOGO = buy one, get one (usually buy one get one free or buy one get one 1/2 off)

BOLO = “be on the look out” (some examples = BOLO for these coupons, these clearance items, etc.)

Cat = Catalinas. Catalinas are the coupons that print out at the machines by the register that they often hand you with your receipt. These are usually considered “manufacturer’s coupons” and the items you purchase usually “trigger” these coupons. You can read more about catalinas here.

CRT – CRTs stands for “cash register tape.” These are the coupons that print out at the bottom of your receipt (they have these at CVS and at Target)

DND = Do not double – Some stores will double or triple a coupon to a certain face value. If the coupon says “DND” or “do not double” at the top, this may or may not apply (it will be up to the individual stores)

ECB = Extra Care Buck – you earn these at CVS when you purchase certain targeted items from the weekly or monthly ad. They can be used like cash off your next purchase.

IVC = Instant Value coupon – these are the Walgreens coupon books that you can find at the front of the store (usually by the weekly ads).  Sometimes there are also instant value coupons in the weekly ads.

GDA = Good Deal Advertised or Good Deal Alert

IP = Internet print – these are the coupons from websites such as Smartsource.com or Coupons.com that you print online

MIR = Mail in rebate

NED = No expiration date

OOP = The amount of money you spent out of your own pocket (after using gift cards, coupons, ECBs, RRs, etc.)

OYNO/OYNP = On Your Next Purchase – Some grocery stores offer promotions where you earn a catalina that can be used like cash off your next purchase when you purchase participating items.

Peelie – a coupon that is placed on the outside of a product and peels off

PG = Procter & Gamble insert (from the newspaper, usually comes out at the beginning of the month)

RP = Red Plum insert (from the newspaper)

RR = Register Reward – You earn these for purchasing certain targeted items at Walgreens. These are like catalinas and are considered to be “manufacturer’s coupons” so the one coupon per item rule applies to these as well.

SS = Smart Source insert (from the newspaper)

Tear pad – These are coupons that you can find and tear off on pads (usually near the product) in stores

Winetag/WT – these are found around bottles of wine and are usually good for a $ amount off of the purchase of items such as meat, cheese, and produce. Some require a wine or beer purchase to use them and others do not require a wine/beer purchase (these will be marked as NWPN or NBPN).

WYB = when you buy – Some coupons will say “free item when you buy X item.” In these cases, you can usually use another coupon to buy the “X” item

YMMV = your market may vary (in other words, this is how it works in my area, but the prices/deals may not be the same in your area)

If you’ve come across a term/acronym that you aren’t familiar with, post it here and I’ll decode it for you! 

*This post may contain affiliate links. Please refer to my disclosure policy for more information.

Tip of the Day Tuesday: How to double and triple coupons

If you are new to using coupons, you may have heard of “doubling” and “tripling” coupons, but this terminology may be confusing.  I get lots of questions about what this means, so I thought I’d provide some clarification!

What does it mean to double and triple coupons?  Does that mean I can use two or three coupons for one item?

You can only use one manufacturer’s coupon per item ever.  If your stores double or triple coupons, it means that the store will double or triple the face value of the coupon.

For example, if you have a coupon with a “face value” (meaning the actual value of the coupon) of $.35 and your stores triple coupons, then $1.05 would be deducted when you purchase a qualifying item and use the coupon.  If your stores double coupons, $.70 would be deducted when you purchase a qualifying item and use the coupon.

I have a few grocery stores in my area that triple coupons with a “face value” up to $.39 and double coupons with a “face value” up to $.50.  This is great because it means that when items are on sale for $1, I can get them for free if I have a $.35 or $.50 coupon! (this is how I get a lot of my free frozen fruits and veggies!)

How do I know if my stores double and triple coupons?

A lot of times, stores will advertise that they double and triple coupons in their weekly ads.  If your store doesn’t do this, it doesn’t hurt to ask!  You also want to be sure that you know the store’s policy for doubling and tripling coupons (my Kroger store will double or triple up to three of the same coupons per transaction, so I was very surprised once when I found out that my Randalls store would only double or triple one of the same coupons).

Doubling and tripling coupons is also typically regional, so even though your Kroger or Safeway store may double and triple coupons in your area, if you go to visit friends and family somewhere else, they may not have this policy.  Also, the amounts that they will double and triple up to sometimes varies.  I know in some areas, they double coupons with a face value up to $1 (I sure am jealous of people that have that policy!)

Many times, you also have to have a customer loyalty card or a special coupon to activate a double or triple coupon promotion.  Again, it’s best to check with your store for details.

Also, typically, you do not get “overage” from using a double or triple coupon promotion.  For example, if I am buying an item that is $1 and I use a $.35 coupon which will triple, only $1 will be deducted rather than $1.05.

My coupon says “do not double” – will it still work?


It might work.  It depends on the coupon.  If you look at your coupons, there is a “code” along the bottom of the coupon (I’ll be explaining this works and how to “read” it in a future post).

Here’s a coupon for reference purposes:

On the lower left hand side, you’ll notice a code along the bottom that starts with a “5”  From my experience, even if the coupon says “do not double/triple” at the top, if the code at the bottom starts with a “5” your coupon will still double.  (The code on this coupon starts with a “5”)

If the code at the bottom starts with a “9” then the coupon will not double/triple.  Most of the “blinkie” coupons you find in the machines in grocery stores start with a “9” and will not double or triple.


*This post may contain affiliate links. Please refer to my disclosure policy for more information.